![nikon d3200 vs d7100 nikon d3200 vs d7100](http://thenewcamera.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Nikon-D7100-vs-3200-back.jpg)
Undo all of the remaining FPC connectors, which are all of the type with a locking hinge that needs to be lifted. The display and controls are connected with a large board-to-FPC connector which is disconnected by simply lifting it.
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It should now be possible to lift off the back of the camera. Remove the four screws around the viewfinder and the screw that was under the grip triangle. Slide off the rubber eyepiece, carefully lift off the sticker on the diopter adjustment dial. Remove the two screws that were revealed under the edge of the rubber grip. Remove the two screws under the port cover. Remove the six screws on the base of the camera. It is held in place with double-sided tape, but also there are tabs in some places, which could get damaged if you yank too hard.Īlso remove the small triangle of grip material on the back. Start by levering it up in one corner on the side of the camera. One of them retains the red plastic that holds the rubber grip in place. Remove the two screws inside the battery compartment. During re-assembly I figured it might be worth documenting this to prevent others from facing the same troubles. To get to the sensor requires peeling off the rubber, undoing stickers, desoldering wires and pulling the front and top off the camera just to be able to unscrew the sensor mount. Compared to all the other (read: more expensive) DSLRs I've taken apart, the D3200 is most definitely not repair-friendly. With Live-view we can see the actual infrared light as it appears at the sensor, and even its contrast-detect focusing should work without needing to be calibrated.Īnyway the reason I'm writing this is that I strongly recommend nobody does this to a D3200. Getting things in focus is always the challenge when shooting infrared, which normally involves looking at the marks on the lens and doing a lot of guessing. However it is new enough to have Live-view, which should be a godsend to infrared photography.
![nikon d3200 vs d7100 nikon d3200 vs d7100](https://cameradecision.com/sizecomparison/Nikon-D3200-vs-Nikon-D7100-size-comparison.jpg)
It doesn't support autofocus for older lenses (which makes up most of my collection) but autofocus isn't important (or specifically, never works) for infrared. This is an entry-level DSLR, which had been bought and basically never used. As fate would have it, someone gave me a "spare" Nikon D3200. I made a note to buy a second-hand camera, something good but old, that I could sacrifice into a new IR camera. Unfortunately the reason I had upgraded to a new camera is that the D80 was reaching the end of its life, the shutter mechanism kept jamming, and despite a perfect modification I only got a few days of use out of it before the shutter gave up entirely. Disassembling the D80 to get to the sensor took maybe 20 minutes. That was such a relatively simple task that I didn't write up anything about it. I have done this in the past: when I upgraded from a D80 to a D7100 I turned the old D80 into an IR camera. So the best thing to do for digital infrared photography is to replace the IR-Cut filter with an IR-Pass filter. That basically defeats the point of an SLR. For one, you need a different filter for each size of lens you have, but more importantly, if you're blocking infrared light from entering the lens, the viewfinder is no longer usable. You'd think this is the best solution, because you can stick IR filters on the front of lenses if you want to block visible light, but the fact is it's incredibly inconvenient to do that. Some people call this a "full spectrum" modification, although a bare sensor is hardly full-spectrum. Most of the time you don't want it, but if you're trying to do infrared photography, that filter has to be removed. If you want to sell a lens or camera, use /r/photomarket instead.In front of the sensor in a DSLR camera is an IR-Cut filter, which blocks infrared light from hitting the sensor.